Greek · Ossington

Mamakas Taverna

Greek cooking on Ossington that finally stopped being about the flaming cheese

GreekOssington, Toronto$$$Details being confirmed
Mamakas Taverna dining and dishes in Ossington, Toronto
Mamakas Taverna — Greek cooking on Ossington that finally stopped being about the flaming cheesePhoto credit: Google Maps · Mamakas Taverna

The review

For a long time Greek food in Toronto meant the Danforth and a plate of cheese on fire. Mamakas made the case for something quieter: good fish, good oil, good lemon, and the confidence to leave it alone.

The whole grilled fish is the order, priced by weight and dressed with almost nothing. Before it, htipiti — whipped feta with roast pepper — which will need reordering. Lamb chops off the charcoal are the alternative for anyone who does not want fish.

Honest notes: fish by weight can push the bill up sharply, so ask before you commit. Parking on Ossington does not exist. Tables are turned to a schedule, which is fine if you know it going in.

What to order

Must order

Whole Grilled Fish

Priced by weight, dressed with oil and lemon and nothing else. The correct order.

Must order

Htipiti

Whipped feta and roast pepper. Order two — one disappears before the mains.

vegetarian

Lamb Chops

Charcoal, oregano, salt. No cleverness required.

What works

  • Fish handled with real restraint
  • Bright room in a grey city
  • Mezze are more than a warm-up

What doesn’t

  • Fish by weight gets expensive fast
  • Ossington parking is a fiction
  • Tables turn on a schedule
Verdict

Htipiti, then a whole fish by weight. Ask the price before you nod.

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