Steak Frites
The dish that tells you whether a bistro is serious. This one is.
French · Leslieville
Eulalie’s Corner Store
French bistro cooking in Leslieville, done without a single flourish
FrenchLeslieville, Toronto$$$Details being confirmed
The review
There is a version of the French bistro that keeps trying to be modern and a version that just cooks. Eulalie's is the second. The menu is short, familiar and executed with the kind of care that makes familiarity the point rather than the excuse.
Steak frites is the diagnostic dish and it comes out right — properly rested, chips properly fried. Duck confit has crisp skin and no decorative distractions. Escargots to start, because that is what escargots are for.
Honest notes: it is small and booking is essential. It is closed Monday and Tuesday. The menu barely changes, which is either the appeal or the objection depending on how often you go.
What to order
Duck Confit
Crisp skin, no shortcuts, no garnish that does not earn its place.
Escargots
Garlic, butter, bread. Order it and stop thinking.
What works
- Classics executed rather than reinterpreted
- Wine list is short and well chosen
- Room is quiet enough to talk
What doesn’t
- Small, so booking is essential
- Closed Monday and Tuesday
- Menu rarely changes
Verdict
Escargots, then steak frites. Book — it is a small room.